Truly understanding a handbag means knowing each of its components and, more importantly, the techniques used to assemble them. Many of these construction details are a key part of the heritage of Made in Italy products. Quality is often found in the details—details that are invisible to the untrained eye.
From handles to linings, from the bottom panel to the side panels, including reinforcements, every element plays a precise role in shaping the aesthetic, functionality and durability of the bag.
In this article, our instructors from the technical course walk you through the main parts that make-up a bag and the key construction methods. Let’s start with bag anatomy:
Bag Anatomy
- Panel : The front and back panels that give the bag its structure and visual identity.
- Gusset These connect the front/back panels and the bottom, giving the bag depth and volume. In some cases, side and bottom panels form a single piece, called side-bottom (Italian: fianco-fondo).
- Bottom: The base of the bag. It can be soft or reinforced depending on the design and construction. Some bottoms include metal feet.
- Flap: The part that covers the bag’s opening. It may be sewn directly onto the back panel or created as a single piece with it.
- Handle: Typically featured in handbags (top-handle bags).
- Shoulder / crossbody strap: Allows the bag to be worn on the shoulder or across the body.
- Edge binding: A leather strip used to finish adjacent edges. A common variant is French binding (bordatura alla francese).
- Drawstring: A lace that closes the top of the bag, running through eyelets or grommets—typical of bucket bags.
- Eyelet: A metal ring, often in two pieces, applied with a press to reinforce a hole.
- Ring: A rigid closed component used to connect two or more parts. Can be D-shaped, round, triangular, or rectangular.
- Clasp: Used to close bags without a flap. These are two interlocking components that snap together.
- Chain: A series of small interlocking rings. Can be used as a handle, strap, or decorative element. Differentiated by link type.
Bag Constructions
Before diving into bag construction methods, keep in mind these are flexible terms used to clarify techniques.
While style refers to the commercial category of a bag (like a shopper, bucket bag, clutch, etc.) construction refers to how the parts are assembled. The same style can be made using different construction methods.
Each construction method has its own rules and standards. It’s essential to understand them from the design stage onward.
In our technical course, aimed at training leather goods technicians, we teach the most common construction types. Here’s a closer look:
T Construction
Identify a volume characterized by a junction of the side and bottom in the shape of an inverted T.
Inside-Out Construction
The panels that make up the central body are sewn together from the back side. Volume in its final appearance is achieved by turning the bag inside out.
Raw construction
The parts of the bag (face, gusset, bottom) are glued together edge by edge and then visibly stitched.
Tooth construction
The depth of the side and bottom has a small step that is used to create volume and easily pass with the final seam.
Box Construction
One of the main panels (face, gusset, bottom) is subjected to its adjacent one. You need a cardboard or wooden form as a mold to fit the pieces together.
Strip construction
A small band of leather or fabric acts as a connection between two main parts of the bag, presenting a raw cut finish on one side and a reverse stitching on the other.
Accordion construction
Side and bottom are represented by flat panels joined together, with a raw cut, forming a series of adjacent pockets.
All the components of a bag are represented in the patterns: precise, digital or paper templates used for cutting materials and assembling the product. Each construction method requires specific patterns.
In our technical course, students learn to create patterns both by hand and with dedicated CAD software.
Reinforcements in Bag Making
Bags aren’t just made of leather or fabric. Internal reinforcements made from various materials are added to give the bag structure and firmness. These are chosen based on the construction type and the desired aesthetic or feel.
Main characteristics of reinforcements:
- Hand: Refers to how the material feels, it can be rigid, flexible, dry, or soft.
- Thickness: Measured with a thickness gauge, expressed in millimeters or tenths of a millimeter (e.g., 8/10 = 0.8 mm).
- Grain direction: The direction of the fibers, which affects how flexible or stiff the final part will be depending on the cutting direction.
Applications of reinforcements:
Fully bonded reinforcement: Two surfaces are completely glued together. Reinforcement is bonded to the back of the leather.
Perimeter or floating reinforcement:
Glue is applied only around the edges of the piece, leaving the center free to move.
Continue Your Learning Path
At Arsutoria School, we offer two technical training paths to deep dive into the world of bag construction:
- 11-week Bag Pattern Making Course: An intensive program focused on developing handbag patterns. Our method blends traditional craftsmanship with digital innovation using 2D and 3D tools for fast, precise results.
- 4-week Bag Prototyping Course: Designed as a natural next step after the pattern making course, but also suitable for beginners. This course focuses on bag assembly techniques—from bench work to sewing machine use. By the end of the course, participants will have created up to four complete handbags.
Bag Pattern Making and Prototyping Course at the Arsutoria School Laboratory