The first step is to receive the file of the last or to digitize a physical last. In Arsutoria School we have a laser scanner for lasts and we will show students both the digitalization process and how to work a file received from a last maker. After the last has been imported students learn how to apply modifications to the last to make the flattening more accurate or to extend the last in case they need to design a (low) boot. Students then learn how to make a flattened base and how to cut it to be tested on the physical last.
The second step is to draw the style lines on the 3D last in the CAD environment. Then a footwear cad requires to create (virtual) patterns. These patterns do not need to be technically accurate, but they are the elements needed to apply materials to the different parts of the shoe.
Apart from the upper, the designer needs to learn how to design a heel/sole and how to include other elements such as metal hardware (e.g. eyelets, studs and buckles), create paddings (e.g. for sneakers), insert logos and writings. Most of these elements can be designed in the software or they can be imported from other 3D modelling tools. Students will learn how to import and adapt files of soles from outsole designers or from mould/sole makers.
One day of the course will be dedicated to the use of a rendering software and to the creation of digital materials. There are different ways to manage materials: they can be scanned with a traditional simple flat scanner and they can also be digitized with advanced scanners. After a file of each material is created it is possible to import both the materials and the 3d design of the shoe in a rendering software and prepare images similar to pictures of real samples.
During the course students use ICad3D+ software that is a tool dedicated to 3D shoe design and technical development. During the course we will also teach how to use a general purpose tool (such as Rhinoceros) to design components like heels or metal parts.
One week will be dedicated to explain the process of translating the 3D design into a 2D technical project. Students will learn that the 2D patterns automatically created by the shoe CAD software need to be worked and often changed to be technically ready for cutting. Students of the 12 week pattern making course can highly benefit from this part of the course because they will be able to apply their knowledge with the CAD tools to make the patterns.
During the first two weeks, you will learn how to make the complete design of a shoe using a 3D software. You will work on four designs with increasing difficulties:
One entire week is dedicated to the use of CAD systems in the footwear industry. 2D CAD systems are commonly used in most of the Italian footwear factories for pattern engineering and cutting. In the recent years, also 3D CAD has reached a very good quality and footwear companies are increasingly implementing these technologies both in the pattern making area and in the design area. At Arsutoria School one classroom with 20 workstations is dedicated to footwear CAD. An automatic cutting table is also available at the ARS-LAB
ICad3D+ is the first software for footwear design and pattern engineering than integrates into a single program two different environments, 3D design and 2D patterns, which works in parallel and simultaneously. This way, ICad3D+ is presented as the best virtual alternative to the traditional process of design and pattern engineering, reducing the time spent as well as the material and human resources of the company