In modo metodico costruisce le fondamenta per la produzione di scarpe.
Nuovamente ricordiamo che la forma o lo stampo usato per fabbricare la scarpa è fondamentale per l’aspetto, la calzata e la vestibilità. Il piede è complesso e le sue misure devono corrispondere a quelle della forma.
Vengono esaminati diversi sistemi di dimensionamento. L’ingegnerizzazione dei tacchi, delle suole e delle solette è la struttura portante di una buona calzatura.
Tutte le parti della struttura devono essere coerenti con l’ultima. Il ruolo e la funzione delle tomaie e delle fodere determinano i costi, mentre i componenti nascosti determinano la qualità. Un video ci accompagna attraverso l’intero processo di produzione della tomaia. Vedremo poi una panoramica delle costruzioni, sia le costruzioni delle tomaie che l’assemblaggio della tomaia con la suola. La costruzione influenza flessibilità, costi e durata. Come professionista nel settore delle scarpe è importante capire il ciclo di vita della calzatura. La calzata è un fattore critico influenzato dal piede e dalla forma. Essere ben informato sulle diverse costruzioni è essenziale. Incoraggiamo tutti i professionisti della calzatura a seguire questo corso per capire cosa c’è dietro il processo produttivo di una scarpa e come ottenere una buona vestibilità e costruzione.
Focus of this lesson is the relationship between the shoe and the foot: how the different parts and volumes of the foot adapt themselves to fit into the shoe while we stand and while we walk. The foot is a very complex and delicate part of the human body with bones, muscles, articulations and veins. Furthermore there are not two people with the same shapes and measures and even between right and left foot of the same person there are differences. Shoes available on the market are manufactured in standard sizes. In this lecture we will explain which elements of the shoe have greater impact on fitting
Many elements of the shoe manufacturing process influence the fitting. The last is definitely the most important. Main focus of this lesson is how measures of the foot such as length, fitting girth, heel girth among the others correspond to measures used to engineer and manufacture lasts. However the last is not the foot: it is a simplified representation of it that has been manufactured in sizes and width. The last is also the mold used to manufacture the shoe and it greatly influences not only the final look of the shoe itself but also the wearability and the comfort of the shoe while stand and while we walk
When we buy shoes we rely on a sizing system and we usually look for a shoe that fits our size. Sizes are not the same in the different parts of the world: in Europe and in the US we do not size shoes the same way. Even e-commerce shops use different sizing systems to target the different countries where they sell. Focus of the lesson is to explain the most important sizing systems. the French, the English and the American. We will explain each system in depth and we will also teach how to compare sizes and widths along the different measuring systems. The second part of the lesson covers the sizing of the last: samples are designed and manufactured using a sample size and then we have practices in the industry on how to grade all the components needed to manufacture shoes
Few hidden components are the skeleton of the shoe and they play such an important role to determine the quality of the finished products. The last is the starting point of every shoe construction but the insole board is the backbone of the shoe once the last has been pulled out at the end of the manufacturing process. Most of the shoes available on the market are manufactured using a cemented construction which is also called board lasted construction. Engineering of not only insole boards, but also of heels and soles – what we call the structure of the shoe- has to be consistent with the measures of the corresponding lasts. Any lack in coordination might result in bad quality of the shoe. Focus of this lecture is how to recognize if the shoe structure that has been developed properly or not.
The part of the shoe that covers the foot is called the upper and it can be made of up to three layers: the upper itself, the lining and the reinforcements. Focus of the lesson is to better understand the role and the function of all these components. The upper can be made into different materials, that are cut in pieces and then stitched together. The way pieces are cut, prepared, reinforced and stitched is one of the most important drivers of the final cost of the shoe and of its quality. A video from a leading Italian factoryguides us through the entire process from design and engineering to the manufacturing of the upper.
Construction is commonly intended as the way the upper is assembled with the bottom part of the shoe. Prior to that there are different way to prepare the upper and we call them “upper constructions”. Focus of this lesson is to understand the three most important techniques to prepare the upper: pulling upside down, creating a sock and wrapping around the foot from downside. These three are the basics of all the shoe constructions e.g. the AGO/cemented that is also called board lasted, the Strobel widely used in the field of athletic shoes and the moccasins. A comprehension of these working methods is essential to understand characteristics such as comfort, flexibility, durability of shoes available on the market
Second part of Construction lecture covers the techniques to assemble the upper with the sole. There are three major families: cement the outosole to the upper wrapped around the insole board, stitch the bottom to the upper and fuse a natural or synthetic rubber sole to the upper. Shoe constructions available on the market are often called with names like Cemented, Blake, Goodyear Welted, Stitch-Out, Opanka, Vulcanized and Direct Injection. This lecture shows why some shoes are more flexible than others, more durable or easier to produce and then ultimately cheaper.