I want to learn the technical side of things to be a better designerRead the full story
A creative soul who has gained a BA and a MA in Fashion Design from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium and as he fell in love with the designing and development of shoes for his final MA collection development, he decided to join ARSUTORIA School to become knowledgeable about footwear pattern making as well. Shone believes that learning the technical side of shoe making would benefit his future designs. As he desires to start his own brand one day, we shall expect to see both garments and shoes.← Back
I want to gain technical knowledge to become a pattern makerRead the full story
Stephanie has always had clear ideas about who she wanted to become: a shoe maker! She started off with a BA in Fashion Apparel with a strong focus on accessories and leather goods and has always maximized any opportunity to get closer to the industry to gain hands-on-experience. Her strive and dedication has gotten her into gaining trust to build up her existing skills by her company. As a matter of fact, Ecco Shoes A/S has sponsored her training at Arsutoria, deciding to send her to Milan to gain pattern making education, prior to graduating from the Global Trainee Programme within product and design.← Back
Footwear is a family business that I want to keep growingRead the full story
Jashim came to Arsutoria with a Business Administration background and with a solid knowledge of leather processing and material as per the Tannery business his family owns with the aim of raising the business to add on the existing field of activities a high-quality leather footwear manufacturer.← Back
I want to get a better technical knowledge about shoesRead the full story
Hugo arrived at Arsutoria School with an extensive knowledge and experience as he worked as Ecco'let Tannery Supervisor in Portugal then moved to Brazil to work in Camuto Group and from there moved to China in Donguang to work for the same company as a Brand Production Manager. CGA sent him to Arsutoria to upgrade his technical knowledge of the product.← Back
The majority of class hours is dedicated to upper pattern making techniques. We have one objective: each student graduated from this course – no matter what he/she will do after this training - should be able to start working in a pattern making department of a shoe factory right after the end of the course.
The course covers the development of the patterns by following a sequence of shoe styles starting from the more classic ones such as pump, ballerina, derby, Oxford and loafer. The working method starts with the analysis of the measures of the last, then students are taught how to cover the last with the masking tape, remove the tape and flatten it to create the base of the last, apply the springs to the base according to the style, draw the style lines on the flattened base and finally prepare the patterns with all the technical details needed to cut them and to use them throughout the assembly process. Then cut the patterns, first on a light paper that we use for a preliminary test and then on a microfiber or on the real materials.
We believe that even the more advanced shoe innovation has to be based on a solid foundation and that is why we keep on teaching the classic styles. While making the patterns, students also learn classic measures, traditional proportions, how to place the correct style lines on a last and how to use different materials starting from leathers to textiles and synthetic materials.
Once these foundations are laid, the learning path brings students to a more advanced level with the study of more difficult designs such as: more complicated pumps and challenging lace-up shoes together with simple and asymmetric sandals, ankle boots and boots.
Those students that are determined to make a further step ahead in the knowledge of the pattern making techniques can take the 5-week advanced pattern making course where other shoe styles are covered: moccasins, strobel and sacchetto constructions.
During the course, teachers organize lectures on different topics:
Students are exposed to lectures and guest lessons by footwear professionals working in different and always unexpected fields. These engaging, one-of-a-kind lessons are a great way for students to understand the intricacies and implications of footwear pattern making and prototyping. In the picture above, a special guest lecture held by Federico D’Amario, orthopedic and former Italian Olympic Skiing Team Doctor.
Inside the facilities of Arsutoria School we have set up a footwear sample room where a team of Italian technicians guide our students through the unique experience of making shoes.
We organize a lecture in the sample room with our stitcher dedicated to the edge finishings. The knowledge of these technical details is extremely important not only for pattern makers but also for shoe designers. We also organize a lecture on the correct use of threads for stitching.
During the last weeks of the course students are challenged to prepare the patterns to create the prototype of a shoe from their design. The school supplies all materials needed to make the prototype, including lasts, leathers, heels and soles.
Students works side-by-side with the school stitcher to prepare uppers and linings. Once uppers are ready, our technicians show the students how equipments are used to assemble a shoe: toe and back lasting, pounding and bottom roughing, heel nailing and sole attaching.
For those students wishing to learn more of shoe manufacturing we are launching a new set of course in 2019. During these courses students will learn the basics of how to use machines from stitching to lasting.
One very important topic of shoe making is finishing. During the last week of the course we spend a day at the shoe finishing laboratory of Kenda Farben where students can apply different finishing to their prototypes with the support of the company specialists.
During the 12 week course we always bring our students to visit at least two companies, leaders in their respective fields:
After the prototyping weeks, all students are engaged in a collective, participative session on fitting test on their prototypes. This is a terrific opportunity to consult with other students and our teachers on the shortfalls and peculiarity of their prototypes. This fitting test session is part of the final grade of each student.
Once the prototypes of the students are made our teachers organize a day dedicated to fit testing of each prototype. The result of the fit testing is part of the final evaluation
During the course the teachers give students assignments (patterns to be done without their support) that are evaluated. Only those students who show positive results in the majority of these assignments can take the final assessment that is:
The Arsutoria diploma is issued to those who successfully complete this final exam.