The course takes in to account the technical making of 10 different bag constructions: t-gusset, bucket, Boston, briefcase gusset, box/saddle bag, strip, framed bag, triple bellows, t-short and darts, bag with pleats, Bugatti bag.
The complete set of the patterns in cardboard is prepared for each of these constructions, including the external and internal parts, reinforcements, linings and patterns for cutting.
The sequence of the patterns worked has been studied to let students face an increasing complexity, while adding different elements and details of constructions.
During the first week the teacher introduces students to the world of bags: names of the different styles of bags are explained together with a detailed explanation of how each construction is developed in production and which materials and components are used.
It is important for the students to understand the differences between the three main types of constructions: those that start from the bottom, the gusset and from the face. In addition, they have to learn the various types of edge finishes: raw edge, folded, stitch & turn. We teach all these details with practical examples and making prototypes of each.
In the beginning of the course students also start to practice in the use of the typical tools used by the pattern makers: cutter and cardboard.
About 140 hours of the course are dedicated to prototyping. Among the 10 sets of patterns developed during the course, students – organized in teams – make four complete prototypes. The aim of the hours dedicated to prototyping is to train participants both in the manual operations and in the use of the machines. The sample room in the bag classroom is equipped with a splitting machine, a skiving machine, four arm sewing machines, a high column sewing machine, a vacuum bench for glue and a roughing machine. Being a sample room and not a factory for production, part of the operations such as edge painting is made with manual tools.
During the hours dedicated to prototyping we have a second teacher that joins the class to teach the use of the sewing machines.
For those who want to make more prototypes and spend more time practicing, we are launching a new 3-week “bag making” course in 2019. During this course, students make three more prototypes of bags, different from those made during the 10-week class.
During the course the teachers organize lessons on different topics about materials and components:
In October, students visit Lineapelle, the most important international fair where suppliers of materials for shoes and bags exhibit their newest collections.
At Lineapelle our students can search for materials, understand what is available on the market and build relationships with the most renown international suppliers.
During the last two weeks each student is challenged to make the patterns and a sample of a bag – starting from a design that they make – without the support of the teachers. The quality of the bag made is part of the final evaluation of the course together with:
During the course few intermediate tests are made to assess the progress of each student. The result of these tests is part of the final evaluation too.
The Arsutoria diploma is issued to those who successfully complete this final exam.
I want to start my own business in the bag industryRead the full story
Andrea is a young industrial engineer, graduated from Universidad de Los Andes who fell in love with leather handbags. Andrea has always loved design and while working on her graduating project being a business plan for leather goods, she also developed designs and first prototypes, she felt the urge to pursue this path with the aim to be able one day to launch her own brand.← Back
Bags are a family business I am intended to move forwardRead the full story
Naveen is a civil engineer and architect who comes from a family business with a strong tradition on footwear making. He has been working in the family business for almost 3 years but has decided to learn about bags to actually look for new market opportunities.← Back
Changed my career and opened a bag retail shop.Read the full story
With a background in the pharmacy industry, Miline decided recently to follow her passion and to start a business in the bags together with a friend. She has opened a bag retail shop with a manufacturing workshop in Brussels. In Arsutoria School she has attended both the pattern making and the design course.← Back
I wanted to strengthen my skills in technical product developmentRead the full story
Giulia has a background in law but she always worked in fashion retail. After few years at Hermes, she decided to take the pattern making course. Right after graduating, she found a job in a leading high-end bag manufacturer in Milan where she started a career in product development.← Back